Macedonia is quite unknown but no less fascinating than other Balkan countries.
The country seems to be ready to invite crowds although still offering traditionally managed landscape full of birds. The history dates back to Macedonian dynasty and Illyrian towns. Sometimes called “Pearl of the Balkans”, Macedonia has breathtaking landscape with vast areas grazed by sheep flocks and countryside full of scenic mountains. Birds are plentiful and not too shy. We will be focused on raptors and passerines that include Levant Sparrowhawk, Long-legged Buzzard, Eastern Imperial Eagle and Lanner, Masked Shrike, Wallcreeper, Orphean Warbler and both Rock Thrushes. To make up for the lack of water habitats in Macedonia we will stay at Prespa lake – on its Greek side that offers better possibilities of accommodation and also better access to birds. White and Dalmatian Pelicans will be the highlighted species there. We will be accompanied by three local guides who know where especially raptors breed.
D1 Thessaloniki arrival / night Kavadarci 4hr
D2 Vitachevo / night Kavadarci 2hr
D3 Lake Tikvesh / night Kavadarci ½hr
D5 Transfer, Mariovo area / night Prilep 2½hr
D6 Transfer, Pelagonia plain / night Agios Germanos 3hr
D7 Prespa lake / night Agios Germanos 1hr
D8 Thessaloniki departure 3hr
Dalmatian and White Pelican
Pygmy Cormorant
Griffon and Egyptian Vulture
Booted and Imperial Eagle
Long-legged Buzzard
Lanner
Lesser Kestrel
Rock Partridge
Roller
Lesser Grey and Masked Shrike
Sardinian, Orphean and Olive-tree Warbler
Rock Thrush
Wallcreeper
7 species of buntings
We fly from UK to Thessaloniki, Greece and transfer to Kavadarci, the centre of a best known wine area in central Macedonia. Depending on the traffic we should drive appr. 3-4 hours. Should we have any time before dinner wecan stop at Demir Kapia gorge to look for a Wallcreeper.
Overnight Kavadarci
Alternatively a 9-day itinerary:
We fly from UK to Thessaloniki, Greece and transfer to Gevgelija on Greek-Macedonian border. Depending on the traffic we should drive appr. 3-4 hours.
Overnight Gevgelija
Day 2 KOZUF MTS.
We spent whole day exploring Kozuf mountains. We will be travelling from an altitude of 100 meters up to almost 1500m. Since we avoid larger areas of forest for the rest of the tour this will be our only chance to look for Black and White-backed Woodpecker, Firecrest, Red-breasted Flycatcher and even an odd Hazel Grouse could turn up. Other birds that we can encounter with luck are Great Spotted Cuckoo, Booted Eagle, Stone Curlew, Semi-collared Flycatcher, Subalpine Warbler or Water Pipit.
We will have to make an early start to arrive to vulture conservation area in time. Morning gathering of raptors and sunshine in our back mean this is the best time of the day to observe up to a dozen of Griffon Vultures and a few Egyptian Vultures. Feeding place also attracts other raptors and we will especially hope to see Lesser Spotted Eagle. A Wolf comes sometimes to grab a piece for its cubs.
We will look out for raptors all day as we will travel along the Tikvesh lake, passing by a few villages before we get to Bosavica gorge. Golden Eagle and Short-toed Eagle, Long Legged Buzzard and Levant Sparrowhawk are all breeding in the area. We should spot a dozen of Woodchat Shrikes, a few Hoopoes, buntings, warblers and if lucky also a Wallcreeper.
Our hotel is found at the outskirts of a small town and we can take a brief walk before breakfast every day. Birds likely to be seen are Hobby, Corn Bunting, Golden Oriole, Syrian Woodpecker or Red-backed Shrike and Cirl Bunting in Town park.
Overnight Kavadarci
In the morning, we will drive towards Vardar river and hope to observe an Eastern Imperial Eagle at eye level on an electricity pylon where it breeds. Peregrine Falcons also sometimes nest nearby.
At the same place, the Calandra Larks sing in flight. Top of a small hill is also a fabulous vantage point providing circular views. Here you will see an archetype of European farmland with dozens of vineyards, solitary trees, and many small grasslands scattered amidst the fields of various size. Wider environs are a good place to watch Bee-eater, Lesser Grey Shrike, Short-toed and Crested Lark, Roller and Lanner Falcon regularly breeds a few miles from there.
Later we move on to the driest area of Macedonia with annual precipitation of less than 250mm. The terrains are flat hills dissected by broad valleys created by temporary water courses that are already dried by this time of the year but still inhabited by Little Ringed Plovers.
Sparse bushy vegetation hosts plenty interesting passerines. Woodchat Shrike, Olivaceous and Orphean Warbler, Spanish Sparrow, Whinchat, Black-headed Bunting or Black-eared Wheatear are the most interesting ones. Sardinian and Olive-tree Warbler occur in low numbers and occasionally a flock of Rosy Starlings turns up.
Many species of interesting insects can be seen here including number of Mediterranean butterflies like Little Tiger Blue or Delattin´s Grayling.
In late afternoon, we visit a village with large Lesser Kestrel colony that amounts to 120 to 150 pairs.
Overnight Kavadarci
The Tikves Lake is an artificial lake stretching over 28 km long and surrounded by mountains. It was created on river Crna (Black river). The lake valley is very picturesque with steep limestone slopes, number of caves and tranquil bays. We’ll cruise the lake on a flat boat ideal for birdwatching. Birdlife used to be busy here and we will watch it both from the deck and also stop at a 13th century orthodox monastery where we will have a longer break.
There is a Griffon Vulture colony on a cliff that has increased in numbers recently. We may also spot nests of Long-legged Buzzard, Short-toed or Golden Eagle. Black Stork often soar over high over the valley while lower levels are reserved for Alpine Swifts and Red-rumped Swallows that will be busy to feed their young. The slopes can hide Cirl and Rock Bunting, Rock Partridge or a Subalpine Warbler.
We can also try to locate a perched Eagle Owl at one of its favourite outposts.
Overnight Kavadarci
We leave Kavadarci after breakfast and take a 2-hour drive to the Mariovo area which is inhabited by large and easily accessible Griffon Vulture colony. Our main goal will be areas close to the road where we will spend rest of the day.
Volcanic rocks are interspersed there with limestone and together with scattered fields, old orchards and winding rivers provide a fascinating habitat to many interesting birds. Rock Trushes and Black-eared Wheatears are common. Besides vultures, Golden Eagle and Peregrine there are Booted Eagles, Rock Partridges, shrikes, Bee-eaters, Woodlark, Ortolan and Rock Bunting, Sombre Tit and possibly Rock Sparrow in the area that we will explore.
This is just another great place where to watch butterflies. About 50 species should be present on a sunny May day including rather localized Eastern Greenish and Gruner´s Orange Tip or Krueper´s White.
Typical and still inhabited old Macedonian village is found where the road ends. There we turn back and drive to Prilep.
Overnight Prilep
We drive across the border to Greece. We will pass Bitola town with nice medieval center that dates back to the times of Ottoman rule over the Balkans. Just outside Bitola there are ruins of much older settlement, Heraclea Lyncensis. It was founded by Philip II., father of Alexander The Great and was damaged by an earthquake in 6th century.
We will take a brief look and perhaps watch a wheatear or Blue Rock Thrush before we get to nearby fishponds. Here we take a longer break while watching birds like Black-winged Stilt, Little Egret, Little Bittern, Penduline Tit or Cetti´s Warbler. We should keep an eye open for a Masked Shrike along the road.
We arrive at Prespa lakes with hopefully some time for a birdwatching before dinner.
Overnight Mikro and Megali Prespa
Alternative:
Day 7 Pelister
Pelister is an alternative addition later in the season (June). It is a high mountain range (over 2600m) and we have a chance of seeing some true mountain birds there. Our hotel found at 1500m and at this elevation it is easy to watch Ring Ouzel, Nutcracker and Bonelli´s Warbler during short morning walk. We will though head for open areas found in the alpine zone. Number of species will shrink to a dozen but among them we will hope for Golden Eagle, Water Pipit, Alpine Accentor, Alpine Chough, Shore Lark and Snowfinch.
The impression a first-time visitor gets from Prespa is of a remote, isolated place, lost in the mountains. But Prespa is found right in the heart of the Balkans and today is shared by three countries, Albania, Greece and Macedonia.
Rich natural environment and evocative landscape, the birds, the traditional villages and the remarkable Byzantine monuments are the best Prespa’s characteristics. In Prespa the variety of habitats and life-forms make up a complex mosaic of nature: from the lakes and the wet meadows to the forests of oak and beech and the alpine meadows of the mountains. The two lakes (Small and Large Prespa) are among the oldest in Europe and lie at an altitude of 2550 feet while several nearby peaks exceed 6000ft.
The lake island of Golem Grad is home to the world´s largest breeding colony of Dalmatian Pelicans, with around 1000-1200 pairs. White Pelican is found there too though in dozens of pairs only.
During the full day in the area we will also look for the Pygmy Cormorant, Little Bittern, Spoonbill, Purple Heron, Glossy Ibis, Black-winged Stilt, Whiskered Tern, Ferruginous Duck and Moustached Warbler. Bailon´s Crake keeps concealed and we can only spot one with luck. Lake cliffs host Rock Nuthatches and Crag Martins and in villages breed Swallows of the E Mediterranean subspecies transitiva with orange belly. Off the lakeshore our attention will be drawn by passerines and we will hope for Cretzschmar´s Bunting on dry slopes over the village.
On evenings we can be accompanied by whisles of Scops Owl or chirping of Nightjar.
Overnight Mikri Prespa
Short birdwatching around our hotel in early morning to give farewell to the splendid wildlife in this forgotten corner of Europe. We drive appr. 3 hours to Thessaloniki airport for our return flight.
